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Detroit Cheli's scores in new hot spot

The lowdown: No one could accuse Chris Chelios of taking it easy. Fresh off a stint captaining the U.S. Olympic hockey team and still slogging away for the Red Wings as the oldest player in the NHL, the 44-year-old just unveiled his second area Cheli's Chili Bar. This one's in downtown Detroit, in a fabulously rehabbed space that's barely a slap shot away from Comerica Park.
For those comfortable with the Dearborn venue, which opened in 2003 and features a noisy sports bar vibe, the Detroit location is more subdued and upscale, with polished woods, dimmed lighting and a notable absence of athletic memorabilia.

It opened during Super Bowl week for private Nike-sponsored parties that hosted some of the NFL's biggest names (Tom Brady, Steve Young, Cris Carter). It's had a soft opening over the past few weeks, and is now gearing up for a more active month, including today's debut of the second bar level and a charity grand opening on March 13 .



Atmosphere: Impressive. Cheli's immediately joins a small handful of venues competing for the title of top downtown hangout. On a recent Saturday evening, it had an almost martini bar feel, the clientele a mixture of suits and hipster nightclubbers. This past Monday was quiet and laid-back, just a dozen or so people grubbing while watching the Pistons on a plethora of flat-screens.
As word gets out, Cheli's will likely take on the tone of nearby events -- ballgames, concerts or theater. It's a surefire bet for Tigers games, with some bar seats providing a view of Comerica Park's southwest entrance, growling bengals and all.

Decor: Management won't say how much was spent on the rehab of the Tudor-style building, but it's clear that expense wasn't the major concern. Originally built in the 1880s and sitting on the northeastern side of Grand Circus Park, what's now Cheli's was almost entirely gutted to produce the current incarnation.

The most notable addition is the main floor's mahogany bar, a long and striking Brunswick-style saddle-up that was modeled on a 1900s-era version that Chelios picked out himself. The mahogany theme is carried throughout, though you'll also see lighter wood accents, the building's original rust-orange brickwork and blackened, industrial-style ceilings.

The second floor houses the kitchen and a cozy mezzanine VIP room -- primarily for Chelios' pals. What management calls the second floor is really the third and features bar No. 2, with video games.

Crowd: Still developing, but management expects that the clientele will be less casual and more evening-out oriented. The obvious exception will be on game days, when the sports-inclined will dominate. Capacity is about 350 between the two levels.

Dress: So far it's been slightly dressy, with a mix of after-work folks and those who think that jeans-and-a-tee don't quite cut it for a night on the town.

Food and drink: Because the emphasis is more on nightlife, they've brought only about half the menu from the Dearborn location, including the namesake chili, which comes in three flavors -- none that sets your mouth afire (served in several variations, $3.95-$6.25). Much of the rest is typical bar offerings, from appetizers to burgers ($6.75-$8.50). They're most hyped about the in-house smoked fare, including the pulled pork sandwich, for which we can vouch.

Drinks: About 20 bottled beers and 12 drafts, including some working-class touches in Old Style and Stroh's, ranging from $2.50-$4.50. The mainstays line the hard-liquor shelf, with mixed drinks running $4-$9.

Music and entertainment: They're experimenting with weekend bands. Tonight rock and R&B cover band 50 Amp Fuse -- a Saturday regular in Dearborn -- performs.

TVs: 36 mid-size flat-screens plasmas that hit just about every sight line.

Hopping possibilities: Within easy walking distance, there's the Detroit Beer Co., the State Bar, just-opened martini bar Proof and Fifth Avenue Downtown, to name but a few.
Cover: None, as of now.

Notable: Cheli's employees say he is intimately involved with all the big decisions -- perhaps no surprise because he began working at various family restaurants when he was a small kid. "He wants to know everything that's going on," says Rob Marano, general manager of the Dearborn location and operations manager in Detroit. "He's the backbone."
Parking: On-street and pay lots are nearby.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Friday, possibly earlier depending on crowds. 4 p.m.-2 a.m. weekends, with noon openings to coincide with events.

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